Protective Styling: Braiding Your Hair For The Winter? Here Are 13 Tips To Keep Your Hair Moisturized & Healthy!

Are you wearing braids for the winter? Wearing braids is a good way to give your hair a break from mechanical manipulation as well as thermal styling. The key to keeping your hair healthy while in braids is making sure your scalp remains clean, your hair remains strong and hydrated, and the tension on the follicles is minimal. If you can balance those needs of your hair during this time, you can successfully wear braids whilst retaining length. 

Here are a few tips and tricks to keep in mind!

Have you had a chemical service in the past 3 weeks? If so, I would strongly suggest waiting another 2-3 weeks before braiding your hair. Chemical services tend to weaken protein bonds as well as the hair shaft which means hair is more susceptible to breakage and excess moisture loss.

Use Human Hair: It may be a little more expensive, however using Human Hair can help your tresses retain more moisture; as synthetic braiding hair has a tendency to suck the moisture from your strands. Synthetic hair can also cause breakage from the friction of your delicate hair against the coarse, rigid synthetic strands.

Are you experiencing excessive dryness, breakage, or chronic shedding?  You should definitely address those issues prior to getting your hair braided. Adding braids to a host of other hair issues would only exasperate those issues and cause further breakage or hair loss. Check out the following articles to help you get a handle on these conditions: 

• Article on shedding 
• Article on breakage
• Article on dryness

Make sure the braids aren't too tight: Braids that are installed too tight can thwart hair growth and can also cause severe breakage, thinning and/or permanent hair loss. If you notice raised areas along your scalp or white bumps, your install is too tight.

Make smaller parts/braids around the hairline: Because your hair is baby fine along the hairline, it is imperative that you reduce the amount of stress placed on the follicles near this area. Making smaller parts/braids can help save your strands from hair loss and thinning around your hairline.

Shampoo braids once a week with a Sulfate Free shampoo [preferably one that has antiseptic properties]: Using a sulfate free poo will not only help cut down on frizz, but will also help keep optimal healthy moisture levels. Reach for a shampoo that contains antiseptic properties as this will help keep itchy, flaky symptoms at bay [because it removes bacteria] while leaving your scalp healthy and clean. I recommend Tea Tree Triple Treat by Giovanni.

Deep condition braids once weekly: Keeping your hair nourished and hydrated will help ensure your hair remains shiny, healthy and free of breakage. To deep condition, use your favorite conditioner diluted with a little water [it's easier to wash out this way] and cover with a plastic cap for 15-20 minutes. Rinse and style usual!

Spritz your hair with a strengthener once weekly after deep conditioning: Regular strengthening intervals will help prevent breakage and thinning as a result of prolonged tension from the braids. I recommend spritzing braids liberally with a diluted mix of Infusium 23 [1/2 water - 1/2 Infusium mixture]

Spritz hair at least three times weekly with a conditioner + water spritz: I recommend using a conditioner/water mix in lieu of braid sprays. The properties in the conditioner will help keep your hair soft, correct issues with elasticity and moisture retention. 

Seal in moisture: After spritzing your hair with your conditioner & water mix, lightly apply an oil [I recommend Jojoba Oil] to your braids to seal in the moisture and impart shine.

Try to go no longer than 2 months in the same braid install: It is recommended that you keep your hair braided no longer than two months for several reasons. First, your hair and scalp needs time to breath coupled with a bit of rest from all of the tension due to the braids tugging on the follicles of your hair. And lastly, this prevents any dreading and excess matting from occurring. 

Stay away from products that contain excessive amounts of mineral oils and petrolatum: These ingredients have a tendency to coat the hair with thick moisture-blocking film that is hard to remove when your hair is braided. Not only do they have a tendency to lock moisture out, but they can also create a sticky coating near the base of the braid which can cause matting and dreaded from your strands sticking to the film.

Nourish your scalp with an essential oil blend, or specialized scalp serum: Nourishing your scalp is an essential part of every healthy hair care regimen, but becomes even more important when it [your scalp] is exposed by wearing styles like cornrows and braids. Apply a scalp serum or essential oil blend to protect, hydrate, and nourish your scalp during this period. Not only will it breed healthier hair, but it will also eliminate issues like dandruff and psoriasis. 

[photo source]

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Wearing a Sew-In Weave As a Protective Style? Here's What You Need To Know!

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A lot of people have asked me to chime in on my feelings about wearing a sew-in weave as a protective style, so I decided to address the question via blog post.

Is it possible to retain length using a sew-in as a protective style? The answer is yes, and only under conditions in which you are very diligent when it comes to caring for your hair. Most breakage and horror stories stems from stylists who don't know the proper amount of tension when it comes to cornrowing hair for the install. As a result, you are left with hair that is thin, see-through, fragile and in desperate need of a major haircut.

Other horror stories are as a result of women installing sew-ins on hair that is too weak to withstand any amount of stress for long periods of time. If you are suffering from severe breakage due to relaxers, or color services, I wouldn't recommend a sew-in install [or anything that places tension on the hair for an extended duration]. A sew-in will only further exasperate your issues leaving you with hair more damaged after the install than it was before.

Finally; you will experience damage if you neglect to follow a regular maintenance routine. The amount of damage varies from breakage in areas that are more prone to damage, to complete hair loss in others. 

You can wear sew-ins successfully if:

• The braids are firm but not tight
• You use human hair instead of synthetic
• Use silk thread in lieu of cotton
• Use a protein treatment before and after each install
• Shampoo hair regularly
• Moisturize regularly
• Leave hair out around hairline, or opt for small individuals
  

Find a gentle stylist: For those out there that decide on a sew-in, make sure the braids aren't too

tight. Most major damage from extensions stems from hair loss due to stressed follicles. Hair loss can occur after one visit, or several depending on the stylist.

• If you get a sew-in and you see white bumps along your hairline, or your scalp is "raised and gathered" along parts of your scalp; the install is too tight.
  

Use silk thread: Although any stress over a period of time can have adverse reactions to your strands, silk thread can lessen the chances of damage. Most thread used for sew-in extensions is comprised of cotton. The friction from the cotton rubbing your tresses can cause breakage as well as split ends. Silk is a much better fiber to use, albeit a little more expensive.

Regular protein treatments are key: Stress from braiding and the tension from the thread sewn around the braids can make for a weakened shaft structure. It is imperative to maintain regular protein treatments to strengthen the hair and prevent excess breakage. How often you decide to use a protein treatment depends on the condition of your hair, and the amount of time spent wearing a weave. I recommend protein treatments before and after each install [provided you go at least 6-8 weeks between installs].

Leave out the hair around your hairline: It may not be the most popular choice, however you can save your hair from thinning and breakage around the hairline. Opt for curly hair instead of straight so that you can blend your hair seamlessly with the extensions. Choosing curly hair will also mean less heat from thermal styling as well.

Don't want to leave your hairline out? Try small individuals along the hairline and nape area. Individuals are less stress on the hairline versus cornrows; which makes them a great hassle-free option.

• If you use this method of individuals along the hairline and nape; it is recommend that you re-braid the individuals every 2 weeks to prevent knotting at the root.

Use human hair: Synthetic hair has a tendency to cause breakage due to the texture of the fibers. To alleviate damage from friction, choose human hair in lieu of synthetic.
 

Keep hair clean: Hair that is compacted on to your scalp is a breeding ground for bacteria, dead skin, and excess sebum. If left untreated, hair loss and thinning can occur. Shampoo hair [focusing on your scalp once a week] once a week to keep your scalp clean and able to absorb moisture.

• Fill an applicator bottle with shampoo water & 1 teaspoon of Apple Cider Vinegar. Squirt this mixture in between your cornrows, and slightly massage area to remove buildup. Rinse well, braid in four large sections, and allow to dry thoroughly. 

Moisturize religiously:  Hair that is dry is more prone to breakage. Moisturizing your hair while wearing extensions is an essential part of maintaining a healthy hair regimen.

• Fill an applicator bottle with your favorite moisturizer or a bit of leave-in conditioner diluted with water. Apply mixture to scalp every other day.

If you follow the methods outlined above: You should be able to leave your install in for up to 3 months. It is recommended that you take 1-2 month breaks in between installs to allow your hair and scalp the chance to breathe and recuperate.

Here are some products to get to know if you plan on wearing a sew-in:

[1] Jane Carter's Scalp Renew: An amazing product that helps maintain a healthy scalp and remedy all issues related to inflammation.- [Use every other day after moisturizing]
[2] Keracare Gentle Cleansing Shampoo For Wigs & Extensions

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Important Tips You Should Know Before Protective Styling - Wigs & Bun Edition

 This photo was taken back in February of 09. Literally a few months after starting my healthy hair journey. I began to experiment with protective styling [specifically buns] until I perfected braid outs and twist outs. Because I knew the implications of pulling your hair taught regularly, I decided to braid my hair in about 8 sections, allow to dry overnight, then loosely bun for more of a wavy effect. This saved my hairline and nape from excess tension, and ultimately follicular damage. 
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1. Be mindful of your hairline and nape: Most damage to the hairline, temples and nape area is due to excessive stress from styling. If you wear braids, buns and other hairstyles where the hair is pulled taught, you are susceptible to Traction Alopecia. Traction Alopecia stems from follicular damage and depending on the extent can be permanent [as follicles are not able to regenerate themselves]. 

• If you are wearing buns as a protective style, switch up the placement of your bun. A high bun one day, a low chic bun the next, and so forth. The goal is to reduce tension in the same areas and relive stress placed on the follicles. 
• Again, for bun wearers; switch up the parts. If you part your hair in the same area over time, you may notice thinning in that area. Alternate the placement of parts to alleviate stress placed on the follicles.
•  Avoid excessively tight hairstyles for long periods of time. Sure there are some people that can retain length and thickness by wearing buns excessively for years. However this isn't the case for most of us. In the US, African American women have the highest rates of Traction Alopecia due to our styling preferences. Experiment with other protective styling options from time like loose pony's and even two-strand twists fashioned into a chic updo. Your hair will thank you! 
• Do not sleep in tight buns or ponytails. Allow your scalp to breath and relieve stress placed on the follicles. Let your hair down, and give yourself a scalp massage to increase circulation to your scalp. The circulation feeds your follicles and promotes hair growth.  

2. For those wearing wigs as a protective style: Don't forget to moisturize. This is extremely important as breakage and brittle hair can go hand in hand with styles that cover up the scalp. This is so because hairstyles like weaves and wigs prevents the absorption of moisture and decreases ability for the scalp to breathe. The key to having healthy hair is keeping your scalp healthy. The main components of a healthy scalp are: cleansing, moisturizing, circulation, and preventing excess stress.

• Weekly shampoo and deep conditioning treatments are still necessary.

• Alternate between wigs, half wigs, and phony-ponys to reduce the amount of time your scalp is covered. 

• Implement regular exfoliation treatments [more info and a recipe can be found here], as the lack of moisture and air can trigger inflammation of the scalp which could later lead to hair loss and thinning. In fact, scalp inflammation is the #1 cause of hair loss in women. 

• Ditch the stocking cap and opt for a silk scarf instead. A stocking cap can cause breakage around the hairline and nape due to friction

• Moisturize the hair at least once daily, as wigs tend to suck the moisture right out of your tresses. 

• Be extremely careful of the placement of combs attached to half wigs and combs, as the digging/friction can cause hair loss as well. Try to stick the combs in the silk scarf so that only a small portion of the comb is attached to your hair. This will help minimize friction.

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